There are places that are simply asking for more time to enjoy them properly… One of those places in Croatia are definitely Kornati Islands group and, among them, Levrnaka Island is one of the most fascinating islands.
I was sailing these islands with our boat for 10 years every two day in the summer but stooping only briefly on Lernaka every single time…
It is one strange shaped island with spacious bay on north side, gorgeous beach on other side and very long “central” part. The bay is particularly great for anchoring but the middle part is quite deep and, according to some, there is a sunken boat right in the center. I was snorkeling along the shores but never in the center of the bay. There is a WW2 German boat sunken along just off the shore further out of the bay and that is regularly visited by divers in the region. Kornati, with it’s 100+ islands is a graveyard of many ships from all periods!
On the other side of the island, is famous Lojena beach – by many – the most beautiful beach in Croatia. It is definitely beautiful! Attracts many boaters in the summer months but, since it is located on a remote island, it is never crowded. Ok, when day trip boats from Zadar and Murter come, it can get quite busy for an hour or so but they leave after 3 pm so it is lovely place to anchor (if the winds are good)
There is “Siko” restaurant in the big bay and, on the narrowest part of the island, Ježina family have their old and new house. Of course, they are from Murter as most other land and island owners in Kornati. Miro and Edi Ježina also run a camp which is one of the most beautiful camps in Croatia! But, since they are mostly interested in olive trees and day trip guests, they don’t really try to attract guests. That is a good thing for someone looking to spend some quiet time on the island!
Levrnaka is a fairly big island (compared to the rest in Kornati archipelago) and offers some fascinating views! Here you can see what Mana Island (and the “ruins”) look like from one of the hills. On the southern side of the island there is also a cave or a pit (did not go there) where, after the WW2, some Italians from Zadar lost their lives. Pity to use this gorgeous place for such purposes… This area was a Partisan stronghold in WW2 as it provided great place for hiding from the mights German fleet.
History is still present in this area and one of the most impressive monuments is wonderfully preserved Tureta on nearby Kornat Island – It is a byzantine fortress dating back to 6th century and it was one of the strongholds during the Byzantine rule in Dalmatia as these waters were always infested with pirates.
Levrnaka Island is definitely one of my favorite islands as it is very interesting and with several great spots nearby. As all of Kornati, it is well worth visiting either from Zadar or Murter but beware what boats you go with as some of them are not going to Kornati although they advertise “Kornati Cruise”. It may be best to spend few days in the camp to get the most of it!