Hiking on Zrmanja

It has been a busy week and too much computer work took it’s toll on back, wrists, eyes… Getting out became necessary! So I called a good friend to join me on a short hike to Zrmanja’s beautiful Veliki Buk waterfall. We considered an alternative route that would be a bit more demanding but, of course, we never did it before.

So, despite light rain, we headed north and soon arrived to a small village on the very edge of Zrmanja canyon. It can be approached from two directions and one leads from Muskovci up the hill but with beautiful views of Zrmanja valley…

Zrmanja valley...

Once we parked the car we followed a narrow path that, we assumed, was leading to the waterfall. The path was following the edge of the canyon and the views were breathtaking!

Lazy white water...

After a while we realized that we have to go down to reach the water. However, easier said than done! No real paths but tons and tons of rocks and stones forming moving slopes of this canyon very hard to walk!
It took us about 30 minutes to walk our way down avoiding moving the rocks too much but I had a very close encounter with few hundred kilos avalanche of rocks and stones! Hardly avoided it!
So, this is not the hike I would recommend to anyone as it is quite dangerous!
But, after we reached the banks, the view and the calmness of Zrmanja are very rewarding!

I could stare at this for hours...
As the river flows...

As the water was quite high, we were unable to reach the Veliki Buk waterfall but we did not care. The river is just mesmerizingly beautiful and the green color so unreal!
It was clear that at this very spot river has been heavy “adjusted” by us. Two really high waterfalls have been destroyed to make the water calmer. Probably for the electric plant further down… Only the remains of once tall waterfalls still remain…

Once a waterfall...

Going up the hill was not as bad as expected although the sides of the canyon are really high (probably 80 – 100 meters at these points). Every time we stopped to take a break we were rewarded by a wonderful view of the river. The wild life, birds and frogs, kept singing the good bye song for us returning back to their everyday routine…

Little frogy

The drive back from this unspoiled part of Dalmatia was as beautiful as always and now even rewarded by a lovely rainbow!


Then, after going deeper to Bukovica, we noticed big machinery going through some of the most picturesque valley (where we pick mushrooms!) making some pipe line! When we will stop with all this devastation? Gas pipe line?!??! How about a solar power plant? Gas is brought from Russia and Sun we have in abundance. I would rather see one nuclear plant than miles and miles of pipeline…


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  1. beauty…peacefull…

  2. Kristijan says:

    Nice! In week or two, will be around that part of Zagora for a day or two.
    And for the gas pipeline… if and when Croats would have OUR government who would be making decisions on our behalf and OUR best interests…! 🙂
    p.s. Hopped that will have time to edit short video clip before the trip, taped 4-5 years ago, featuring canyon of river Krka from location on your header photo but, looks like some other time.

  3. @ Kristijan – I know that progress takes it’s toll but it would be good to think well in advance and not build a gas pipe line in 2010…

  4. Janek says:

    Looks great! Is it possible to swim in Zrmanja – is it safe?

  5. It is possible but only on certain parts – Muskovci are quite nice. However, please note that these slopes are extremely demanding and I would highly recommend avoiding going down anywhere before Muskovci

  6. Janek says:

    Thank you for a quick answer! By “before” you mean up the river to the east or down? 🙂

  7. Yes, it is east of the waterfalls on the map 🙂
    The first image you see on this page is on Muskovci.

  8. Kristijan says:

    Sorry that we did not meet in Zagora last weekend. For now I just uploaded few photos http://bit.ly/bqW5UP

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