A Hidden Croatian Paradise
Silba is a small island north of Zadar where life unfolds at a gentler pace, thanks in part to its car-free policy. The journey can take over an hour by motorboat, which isn’t exactly convenient—but once you step onto Silba’s shores, you’ll understand why it’s worth the effort. Tranquil lanes, pristine beaches, and a sense of timelessness greet you as soon as you arrive. If you’re seeking a summer escape that requires little more than a swimsuit and the desire to do nothing at all, Silba delivers.
Captivating Calm and the Legend of Pankogulo
The island’s peaceful vibe is part of its charm, yet it also harbors an intriguing local legend. The legend of Pankogulo Vampire of Silba. When I couldn’t sit still after dinner, I ventured to the historic St. Mark’s cemetery to investigate the story of Pankogulo—a mid-19th-century bell-ringer who, according to lore, turned vampire after a tragic turn of events. His rise supposedly caused a “moritud,” a mass dying-off of livestock. Villagers sought refuge in St. Mark’s Church, where bizarre happenings like a blood-filled goat’s bladder reportedly forced the church to close for forty days—an event some archived accounts claim is true.
Exploring St. Mark’s Cemetery and Church
During my late-night and early-morning visits, I discovered numerous headstones belonging to Silba’s once-thriving community of sea captains, whose navigation and trade routes boosted the island’s economy. One of the more notable graves belongs to Zdenko Brusić, a renowned Croatian archaeologist who inspired many of today’s leading scholars. With the help of friendly locals who are in charge of maintaining the cemetery, I entered St. Mark’s Church, dating back to 1637. The interior carries a special atmosphere, with centuries-old artifacts and a bell tower rumored to feature Pankogulo’s carved face.
The Mysterious Bell Tower and Final Thoughts
Determined to document the carving, I launched my drone in the morning, capturing images of the tower and scanning for any clues about the legendary monster. Reviewing the footage later revealed something odd—an opening that had been boarded up appeared open just hours later. While it may be nothing more than an early-morning change, it’s hard not to wonder if the vampire is out. :)))
I lifted the drone into the morning light for the perfect angle on Pankogulo’s carved face on the bell tower. This is the closest view I got of the Pankogulo Vampire of Silba. From above, the tower revealed more details— including a bell lying on the floor.
Ultimately, Silba feels like a well-guarded secret, offering a rare combination of peaceful scenery, fascinating folklore, and a timeless pace of life that’s increasingly hard to find. Click on a link below to see video!