Secret Dalmatia Blog - Travel Experiences in Croatia

Dalmatian coast is full of hidden little coves that managed to escape main roads, apartment buildings, nearly any construction… Many of them are located on the coast but much more on the islands.  Murter Island had that (mis)fortune to be connected to the mainland by a bridge as the island is only few meters away from the mainland at Tisno. Most of the colorful villages like Betina and Jezera are now just a nasty mix of charming old architecture  and new apartment buildings… But the southern side – and western, if we want to be geographically correct – are full of paradise coves and rocky beaches. Most popular is Kosirina with the camp of the same name but that entire stretch is simply amazing. So, I was quite happy when, for the first time, I had a chance to visit Murtar: small cove that gave the name to the island of Murter.

Banchetti Family Summer house
Banchetti Family Summer house

There is a newly restored 18th century Banchetti Family Summer house, now owned by a German family. This summer residence of once mighty local noble family was burned to the ground but now is restored to quite a nice condition and the ongoing landscaping shows great care of the current owner.

...and they have a cute kitten!
…and they have a cute kitten!

In the November dusk, olive trees looked somehow more beautiful than ever…

Olive grove
Olive grove

…and then we went to the sea and small port that is a nice hiding place for numerous boats owned by the locals. It is a safe little harbor for local gajeta, leut and kaić – all traditional boats in Dalmatia.  Murtar has only two buildings: one home to a local family and ruins of an old fishing company warehouse. There was an ambitious plan to build a nice 4* resort/hotel here which would definitely be quite successful, but I like the calmness and peace of this place…

The sleepy harbor
The sleepy harbor

Although with numerous interventions, it is still a typical Dalmatian harbor:  safe port for boats and place of eternal beauty. At least for us who are helplessly in love with Dalmatia 🙂

Gajete and leuti...
Gajete and leuti…
Colors of Murter Island
Colors of Murter Island


And the place offers these typical Dalmatian motifs of fishing boats in the harbor.

Back to the harbor before sailing out at night
Back to the harbor before sailing out at night

Numerous are archaeological finds on Murter Island and there is a strange mound in this bay that some think served as a place where the signal light was lit for the boats coming back to the harbor. Not sure if I would build something like that on that spot but… Looks more like an important grave or something similar. Nevertheless, Murtar is a lovely bay, worth visiting in all seasons and, in the summer time, offers some of the nicest and not crowded swimming spots.

Overlooking Kornati...
Overlooking Kornati…

The cove is easy to reach from Jezera: first right to the non paved road and follow that road to the end. Not in the best condition so drive slowly but well worth the short detour!

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