Summer on Vis Island

Summers are always special. It is all about sun and fun and with winter slowly creeping upon us, I remembered the few days off on Vis Island this past summer.

My wife’s family is from Vis Island: father from Komiza and mother from Vis and I cannot even begin to tell you how much people envy me on that thing alone :))))))))) Her family house is in the part of Vis called Lučica, just after Kut towards the Češka Vila and Grandovac beach.

Arriving to Vis is VERY different in summer than in the winter time since open decks are usually crowded with people and especially from the beginning of July to mid August. Since we were going in the last week of July, it was still ok and we were able to find place to sit and enjoy the sunshine for those 2 hours or so that takes the ferry to reach Vis from Split.

Hoste island at the very entrance to Vis harbor
Hoste island at the very entrance to Vis harbor

So, once we reached the Island, my future brother in law, Mario, took us to our house since it is some 5-6 kilometers from the ferry harbor in the center of Vis.
Part of the way we still have to walk since the historic streets have not been designed with cars in mind but with fears of pirates, Italian navy, Napoleonic invasion…

Walking to our summer residence
Walking to our summer residence

The majority of guests to Vis are coming with their chartered yachts and simply anchor in the bay once the space in harbor or Kut is taken. Other guests come to stay in private apartments or in one of three hotels in Vis town and one in Komiza. None of the hotels matches the potential of the island! Vis can easily become “second Hvar” due to beautiful nature, historic towns, great food… But, staying quaint and peaceful for most of the season is actually good and the island should stay away from the mass tourism and develop special tourism niches becoming a destination specializing in food and wine (simply unparalleled on our coast!), nautical tourism (more facilities and even a small marina) and improve the hotels to good 4 stars.

But more on that later… I keep thinking on what to do instead on how to relax and that is not always a good thing.

The boats in Kut seen from the Joakinove skale steps
The boats in Kut seen from the Joakinove skale steps

My wife’s grandpa died this summer… and it is a very sad feeling getting there without him. I cannot say that I was visiting too often but the feeling that you had someone there was the feeling that made Vis feel even more “ours”.
Now, whenever I look through the window of the bedroom, I think of late grandpa Jakov Poduje.

The view from the bedroom
The view from the bedroom

The daily ritual includes 9 AM coffee on the terrace overlooking the bay, planning what to have for lunch and slow preparation for a longish but always pleasant walk to Luka (harbor, center of Vis Town)

Eternal beauty and harmony of old architecture and beautiful nature
Eternal beauty and harmony of old architecture and beautiful nature
Green market
Green market

And then we stop at the market to get some food or continue for a drink at ever-popular Baby cafe.
But, in the middle of discussion about the lunch, my guide Rada called. She was also on Vis as she is married to a guy from Podspilje. That is one of the smaller villages located in the center of the island and just bellow the famous cave that served as a refuge to Tito in WWII.
So, we accepted her invitation for a lunch and I was also curious to see that village.

Radas house in Podspilje
Rada's house in Podspilje

As we enjoyed Rada’s lasagnas and the peaceful atmosphere of Podspilje, our son quickly made friends with the only boy that lives in the village and Rada’s daughter. You know how the kids are:never eating when you want them too and always somewhere you don’t want them to be 🙂

But I love this photo of my son Roko (on the right) and his new friends!

Friendship
Friendship

Leaving the village we toured “the best barbecue in the World” (according to Vanity Fair!) which is tiny “Pol Murvu” tavern in Podspilje. Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to stay there or return for a dinner but Vis Island is so full of great restaurants that you can hardly go wrong! See my review of famous Pojoda restaurant in Vis town.

Pol Murvu
Pol Murvu

On the way back we passed the famous vineyards of Vis and enjoyed a great ride down the hill all the way to Vis town. There is something so 50’s and 60’s about the old curvy roads. Or I watch too many old movies?
The views of Vis harbor are always truly spectacular!

THE panorama!
THE panorama!

Unfortunately, my stay on Vis is always limited by the amount of work and, since this was quite busy period, I had to leave after only 4 nights. My family stayed, of course, for another two weeks. Well, the winter is ahead of us and we will surely be back few times. Nothing nicer that the sound of bura!

And this is what leaving Lučica by car means:

Narrow? Nah! Narrow is arround the corner!
Narrow? Nah! Narrow is arround the corner!

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